docs: #3625389 Document the DDEV install

Closes #3625389

The README documents the DDEV flow end to end. Two things verification surfaced and the README now states: the template's own .ddev/config.yaml lands during ddev composer create-project and overwrites the one ddev config wrote, so a ddev restart is needed; and ddev drush finds bin/drush despite the non-standard bin-dir.

Verified by following the README literally in a fresh DDEV project.

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